It was Sunday, and I had woken up with an urge for grilled chicken and fried potatoes. Nothing could dispel it. However hard I tried imagining a healthy bowl of salad or a really decadent sandwich, grilled chicken and potatoes was all I had on my mind. I was on my own, but I detest fast food so had no desire for a take-away meal eaten on my own. At once I dressed and stepped out into the harsh glare of the August sun, intent on finding you-know-what.
In the old part of Pafos town, every taverna was closed – either for the summer holidays, or the Sunday. All had the abandoned air of a hot Sunday afternoon hanging about them. Then I remembered an advertisement I had seen for the Kiniras Hotel in Makarios Street, Ktima, and I hurried there. I stuck my head in at the entrance to the 19th-century hotel, but no sooner had George Gregoriou, the owner, spotted me than he drew an arm through mine and led me into a cool courtyard adorned with trees and statues. He seated me in the draft of two fans at a round stone table, from where I could watch both the souvla turning, and the other guests.
I was in an oasis – totally unpretentious, with quaint touches of architecture such as old places possess, to keep the eye busy. In this atmosphere, I felt completely relaxed even on my own. The small courtyard is intimate without bringing one’s neighbours too close. On an elevated level, there is a gazebo with one large table for family occasions. The dappled sunlight, the trees and pots of flowers on each table added up to the happy illusion of being seated in a bower, and I could see the party next to me were also basking in the beauty and simplicity of our surroundings.
George poured me a delicious dry white wine from the village of Statos and left me with a basket of bread and the menu.
I was going to have chicken and potatoes at last! I did notice a meze for two which combined kleftiko, various kinds of souvla and a host of other delights for a very reasonable €12.00, and my neighbours’ choices of steak and salmon seemed so good that I almost wavered, but no, I ordered the chicken souvla at €10.00. (Lamb souvla costs exactly the same.)
When my plate arrived, it was a feast for eye, nose and palate. Three very generous portions of grilled chicken were accompanied by the most delicious spiced rice, a mound of crisp chips, the freshest of salads and a goodly helping of tzatziki. I sat back and savoured the moment.
I could not believe the bill when I finally decided to step back into the hot afternoon. It came to no more than €10,93, and I had had two glasses of wine, a bottle of water, fruit from George’s own garden served attractively as a dessert, and an offer of a parting brandy which I declined. It had been one of the best Sunday afternoons of my stay in Cyprus and I thanked my lucky stars for remembering the advertisement.
Later, on closer inspection I found that it stated that the Kiniras is the only hotel in the Pafos area to have been awarded the CTO’s coveted ‘Vakhis’ certification for authentic Cypriot cuisine. That it richly deserves.
Contributed by Estelle du Toit
